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antipodi
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Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:46 am
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 Bringing up Bunny ..not just a pretty face..
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Bringing up Bunny ..not just a pretty face..
There are various breeds of rabbits and a few considerations you should know before you get a rabbit as a pet.
The American Rabbit Breeder's Association recognizes over 40 breeds of rabbits ranging from the common to the exotic. Rabbits range in size from the Netherland Dwarf with a maximum show weight of 2 ˝ lbs to the Flemish Giant with a minimum show weight of 13 lbs. It is not uncommon to see Flemish Giants hitting 18 – 20 lbs and there have been reports of Giants hitting 25 – 28 lbs. Some rabbits have very short and velvety coats like the Rex and Mini Rex. Others have a mutated hair shaft that creates a brilliant sheen as in the Satin and the Satin Angora. Some rabbits have upright ears while others are lopped. Some rabbits have very long coats like the Angora breeds. Some rabbits have an upright posture such as the Britannia Petit or Belgian Hare. Others have short, rounded bodies like a Polish. And there is one breed with an elongated, snake-like body: the Himalayan. Some breeds have only a couple coat colors or patterns like the Florida White, the Tan, the Rhinelander, or Hotots (pronounced with long o's) while others have dozens of colors and patterns like the Mini Lop, Jersey Wooly, and Holland Lop. Now to add to the confusion: there are thousands of crossbreeds out there! So what rabbit is right for you if any rabbit at all?
There is the cage consideration and space. Pet rabbits do best when they are inside the house. Rabbits kept outside are at risk of the elements, pranks, theft, and predators and tend to be forgotten about which leads to poor socializing. How large a space can you devote to a cage? The size of the cage depends on the size of the rabbit. The tiny Netherland Dwarf (about 2 lbs) is fine with a 24"x24" cage and should not be kept in a smaller cage. Small to medium breeds (4 - 6 lbs) should have no less than 24"x 30", medium to large (6 - 10 lbs) about 24" x 36" to 30" x 36" and giants (over 10 lbs) 30" x 36 " up to 36" x 48". If you house two rabbits, you will need double the cage space. The cages sold at pet stores are often inadequately sized for any rabbit. The best cages come from feed stores or even mail order and some people custom make cages for the pet owner. The cage should have some form of mat or sitting board so the rabbits can get off the wire. In larger breeds and breeds like the Rex with super short coats, this is mandatory. The lack of coat or the weight in relationship to foot size can lead to sore hocks. Cages should be cleaned at least every other day if not daily. Line the tray with a thick layer of newspaper.
What about grooming? Rabbits spend a lot of time grooming but they still need attention from humans. All rabbits benefit from brushing. The frequency of brushing can be daily if you have an Angora breed to weekly if you have a normal coated breed. Rabbits shed and brushings must be increased during these periods. Rabbits not properly groomed are not only uncomfortable but ingested hair can create a blockage. Rabbits cannot cough up hairballs and can die if the blockage does not pass. Lops and Angoras need their ears checked several times a week as they can develop infections due to lack of air circulation. All rabbits need their nails trimmed and some may even need their teeth done of they have a condition called malocclusion (teeth not aligned properly and as the teeth grow, they do not wear down and the rabbit will starve).
Can you feed your rabbit properly? Just tossing them a bunch of lettuce and a carrot or a bowl of pellets is not proper feeding. A good quality pellet mixed with grains, hay, alfalfa blocks (not too many, this is a very rich treat) and sunflower seeds (I like to buy the hulled ones) along with daily fruits and vegetables (carrots or the dark, green veggies, not iceberg lettuce which has the nutritional value of wet cardboard) go into a well-rounded rabbit diet. Rabbits also need fresh water ever day. A water bottle is the best way to provide water for your rabbit and the water stays cleaner than if kept in a bowl.
Are you willing to provide proper medical attention? Though a rabbit is generally a healthy pet, they can get ill (rabbit medical concerns will be discussed in greater detail in another installment). Not all veterinarians are really qualified to treat rabbits. You need to find a vet who deals with exotics and who has rabbit experience. Are you willing to spay or neuter your rabbit? Rabbits can have hormone related behavioral issues, develop reproductive tumors, scent mark (urine spray), and breed like, well, rabbits. All these can be reduced or eliminated by spaying or neutering.
Are you willing to devote not only the time each day to your rabbit but also commit to it for its entire life? With better nutrition and understanding of rabbit health, it is not uncommon for them to live to be ten years old. I personally knew a rabbit that was fourteen when I met him. What if you have to move or have a new baby, get married, etc.? What will happen to the rabbit?
Who will care for the rabbit? Most of the rabbits that come into rescue were former Easter gifts. A very common reason for giving the rabbit up is “The kids lost interest and I will not care for it.” Children, even responsible ones, are not mature enough to properly care for a pet. Heck, many adults are not mature enough to properly care for a pet. A rabbit's primary caregiver must be a responsible adult with the child assisting. If you are not 100% willing to be that primary caregiver, do not get a pet. Children develop other interests and often the rabbit falls out of favor for a new toy, newest crush, sports, etc. And a rule of thumb with rabbits and children: the younger the child, the larger the rabbit. If your child is very young, consider waiting until the child is older before getting a bunny. A scared rabbit can give a nasty scratch and if dropped, bones can break easily.
So, you are certain you can give a rabbit what it needs; the next big decision is where to go to get your bunny. I recommend only two sources: a rescue if you just want a pet or a reputable breeder if you plan to show. But since the general public wants a pet and many purebreds show up in rescue, please use this as your first stop when looking for a rabbit. A good rescue will not only screen applicants but also the rabbits for adoption in the attempt to make the best match possible. If you are looking for a specific breed and have exhausted all rescues in search of it or are interested in showing a rabbit someday, then seek a good breeder. A good breeder breeds first to improve upon not only his or her rabbits as well as the breed in general. They do not breed crosses nor do they breed solely for the pet trade. Those rabbits that do not fit the breeder's standard as well as the Standard of Perfection as written by the ARBA will be sold as pets. A good breeder will not use stores to place rabbits not fitting their needs, they will sell directly from their homes. A good breeder or rescue will also take back a rabbit for any reason if it cannot be kept and give some form of health guarantee.
What about pet stores? I advise people to stay FAR AWAY from them. You do not know where their rabbits came from and the employees always answer the same: a breeder. Often the breeder is a miller (a miller mass produces rabbits or other animals for the pet trade with little concern for health and quality) or someone who has had accidental litter they are trying to dump or someone who really is not responsible. Some stores will even say they rescued the rabbits from shelters. You have no way of knowing if the stores are telling you the truth (for example, every bunny is a dwarf when in actuality you may end up with an eight-pound rabbit). You have no way of telling the conditions the critters were in prior to shipment to the store. Rabbits cannot be properly socialized when spending their formative weeks in cages in a store and overcrowding leads to issues both behaviorally and with health. Stores are very stressing environments for animals.
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